Art And Architecture On Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast

The sun-dappled shores of Croatia have captured the hearts of millions, and every summer this Balkan state welcomes a tidal wave of visitors from across the globe. The turquoise glitter of the Adriatic Sea is enticing indeed, but the pursuit of beachfront fun doesn’t have to compromise on culture.

Croatia’s popular Dalmatian coast is known to be rich in history, but it’s also a site of new artistic initiatives, architectural gems and design innovations that are elevating the offering for art lovers. I single out some of the most eye-catching—and lesser known—places to stay and visit that tick these boxes.

Aural Architecture: Zadar’s Sea Organ

In Zadar, the second-largest town on the Dalmatian coast, you’re guaranteed to run into the Roman ruins that seem to range across the whole city center. Temple alters, elaborately carved reliefs, and a column with Corinthian script are just some of the leftover relics that testify to an ancient civic and religious life dating back to the 1st century.

Wandering around these remnants is an experience, and if you’re keen on antiquity there’s an Archaeological Museum, but there’s another captivating outdoor attraction that is less obvious. Zadar’s Sea Organ, the brainchild of local architect Nikola Bašić, is an unmissable curiosity.

Conceived as part of the effort to revitalize the war damaged town, the Sea Organ has turned a stretch of Zadar’s seafront into a popular public spot. Imbedded into the marble promenade, fluty, haunting sounds—rhythmic and mournfully resonant—are created by the waves and wind as they collide against the jetty. Each visitor hears a tune unique to the motion of the water in that moment.

The sleek design includes 35 pipes that are connected through a series of stairs, carrying sound up via openings that look something like stylish, minimalist stone grates. This example of aural architecture is not only a great novelty, but a chance to muse on how art can manifest in our environment.

Where To Stay Near Zadar: Villa Nai 3.3

Villa Nai 3.3 is another ode to the talent of Nikola Bašić, creator of the Sea Organ. One hears the phrase “architectural gem” all too often, but Villa Nai 3.3 is a bona fide design marvel. Built out of the rose-tinted limestone that was excavated to accommodate this eight-room masterpiece, it is imbedded into the landscape—and looks like a luxury grotto for nymphs, or the secret lair of a Bond villain, or a secluded hideaway for movie stars having clandestine love affairs. In short, it’s evocative, and so ingeniously camouflaged that anyone looking for real privacy will find it here in spades.

Situated on Dugi Otok, one of the quietest and least developed islands in Croatia, it’s accessible via ferry or catamaran from Zadar (or you can use the helipad). The peacefulness of the spot adds to its great natural beauty, and in many ways, it is proprietor Goran Morović’s love letter to the land of his ancestors. For this is a family business, and the hotel stands in the olive groves that passed down through generations for 500 years. Even more spectacular, they have an in-house olive mill, and the resulting olive oil is so delicious that there’s an entire trophy room dedicated to awards it has won.

But to return to the design: the property’s attention to detail is second to none. Each suite is vast, complete with four poster bed, specially imported floor-to-ceiling sliding windows, and private terrace with vistas of the Adriatic. The interiors have been kitted out by storied Italian furniture designer, Giorgetti.

Villa Nai 3.3 is a bona fide design marvel

The courtyard has a slightly Sicilian accent, with lemon and kumquat trees in terracotta vases, but it’s Grotta 11 000, the smaller outside dining space, that plays fully on the ingenuity of the architecture.

Enclosed by a rugged rockface, Grotta 11 000 creates the intriguing impression that you’re dining in a cave. To complete the mirage, the menu here offers dishes cooked on open flames. There’s a pizza oven and a charcoal grill, and guests can gorge on locally caught fish and produce from Villa Nai 3.3’s own farm—all under a canopy of stars.

Classical Splendour: Split Palace And Old Town

A view of the house Freud once stayed in, a capella singing by local choirs, and a full throttle history of Split—from Byzantine city to Venetian outpost—is on offer with a guided tour of the Old Town. This may not seem like the most relaxing pastime in the hot summer months, but you’ll be pleasantly surprised.

The inner sanctum of Diocletian’s Palace, what’s left of it, includes vaulted ceilings and thick stone walls that keep the space wonderfully shaded and cool. This vast complex includes 13th century Romanesque churches, ancient mausoleums, and imported sphinxes, all of which form a UNESCO heritage site.

These attractions are hardly news, but getting a guided tour fundamentally changes one’s understanding of the history, so that’s my insider recommendation. Dinah Roguljić, founder of premium travel company, Lagida, is a thoughtful and astoundingly knowledgeable guide who can tailor a tour to your specific interests.

She goes as far as recommending well-priced local eateries and bars known for quality wine; a serious boon in a place like Split that can bump up prices for tourists. She even pilots us to newly opened galleries, picking out spots that are hard to stumble upon as a mere holidaymaker.

Where To Stay In Split: Hotel Ambasador

Hotel Ambasador has recently gone through a complete rebuild, though it has stayed true to the original 1937 design by trailblazing Czech-Croatian architect, Josip Kodl. Considered the father of Split’s modern style, the current Hotel Ambasador pays tribute to Kodl in this impressive contemporary answer to his cubic avant-garde façade.

A mainstay on Split’s luxurious harbour, the property boasts impressive views across the city and water. It enjoys all the usual five-star amenities such as spa and gourmet dining (I highly recommend the elevated local flavours at Restaurant Méditerranée), but most interestingly it has recently launched a rotating programme of curated art, titled “Ambasador Art Gallery”.

Using wall space across the bar area and lobby to exhibit contemporary (and often Croatian) artists, you don’t have to stay at the hotel to swing by for an afternoon aperitivo with an extra colourful backdrop.

In other efforts to support homegrown talent, Hotel Ambasador goes as far as recommending nearby galleries and sculpture exhibitions on their socials. Best of all, they honor celebrated Split-born photographer, Feda Klarić, by featuring his enlarged works throughout reception. Captured in black and white, the photojournalist’s oeuvre is a window into the changing everyday life in Split throughout the 1970s to 2000s, and strikes an eclectic, enticing note in the mirrored entrance hall.